Categories
Uncategorized

Matteo a Venezia

Categories
Uncategorized

Rialto bridge and its fascinating history

rialto-bridge

Rialto bridge was the first one built on the Grand Canal and it is the most famous bridge of the city. Why?

It all began with the foundation of Venice, the first settlements took place in this very area that was called Rivoalto, literally high land. With the development of the city, Rivoalto became the headquarter of the political and commercial life: it was full of markets, storehouses, shops of jewels, precious fabrics, spices and so on. At that time people used a boat, called “traghetto”, to cross the Grand Canal, they had to pay a toll for this service; the first bridge in this location was then built in 1180 and it was called the “toll bridge” because people still had to pay in order to cross it.

The bridge was made with boats that were connected together with some wooden tables and in the middle it was a drawbridge, in order to allow big boats to pass underneath it. It was completely rebuilt in 1255, it was made with wood, with piles as foundations, the drawbridge in the middle and with shops on both sides. People started calling it the Rialto bridge, from the contraction of the area’s name Rivoalto.

Tiepolo’s conspirancy

This bridge will remain unaltered until 1310, this year sadly became famous because of the conspiracy of Bajamonte Tiepolo: it was organized by some Venetian aristocrats who wanted to rebel against the Doge.

Their plan was to attack the Doge’s palace (headquarter of the government) and to kill the Doge but it failed: the conspirators were discovered by the army of the Doge and were forced to retire. They crossed Rialto bridge during their escape and, in order to stop the army that was after them, they set the wooden bridge on fire. All the members of the conspiracy were then caught and exiled from Venice; the leaders were condemned to death, while Rialto bridge , that had been damaged by the fire, was repaired.

The bridge was then able to survive until 1444 when Venice hosted the wedding of the marquis of Ferrara; on the Grand Canal there was a beautiful parade of boats and everybody wanted to see the bride. A lot of people gathered on the bridge to see the parade… so many that the bridge collapsed! Luckily there were no victims, except for the bridge

Rialto-Bridge-sunset-san-marco-sestiere

Antonio da Ponte

It was rebuilt with wood in 1450 but still, it wasn’t so stable, so the Republic of Venice finally thought: why don’t we built a bridge made of stone, that maybe will be stronger than wood?

They announced a contest to choose the architect that would have been in charge of the entire project. There were different participants, a lot of them were great names of Italian architecture such as Palladio, Michelangelo and Sansovino.

The winner was Antonio da Ponte (it’s ironic that its surname actually means bridge in Italian) who proposed the best solution to all the requests of the Republic. The bridge was completed in 1591, made with Istrian stone and based on 12000 wooden poles, the arch measures 28 meters and with 24 shops (12 per side).

Restoration

Rialto bridge is divided in three lanes: the central lane is 10 meters wide and with bigger steps; the two lanes on the sides are 3 meters wide. Here the steps are lower and smaller in order to facilitate the transit of men with carts that transport and deliver goods all over Venice. To built this bridge the Republic of Venice spent 250,000 ducats. That means 10 times the price that they paid for the previous wooden bridge.

Today you can admire the bridge in all its magnificence because it has been recently restored. It is also one of the most photographed sites of Venice and a must-see for all visitors. Come and discover more curiosities and legends about Rialto bridge and the area nearby during one of our tours! We have plenty of stories to share with you!

Categories
Uncategorized

Best food in Venice

sweet-and-sour-sardines

Best food in Venice

A JOURNEY AT THE DISCOVERY OF THE TYPICAL DISHES OF THE LAGOON

“Cities you go to, food you find” if there was a saying to define our beautiful Italy it would certainly be this. Our territory is in fact small in size but it is so rich in different climates and landscapes that it has given rise to a varied and complex cuisine over the centuries.

Italy is often identified as the home of pizza and pasta, of course both perfectly summarize the spirit and the essence of italianness but it would be a mistake to believe that these two delicious dishes are the mirror of the traditions of each italian region. If Emilia Romagna is famous for its sliced salami and its sublime Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, if Tuscany is the land of Chianina meat and Chianti wine, if Calabria is known for its spicy chillies and Sicily is the mother of Arancini (little fried rise balls with ragù sauce inside) and blood oranges, Veneto is home to radicchio, rice and Prosecco wine.

As you can see in a few lines and with a few examples we have already highlighted so many differences. Above i mentioned Veneto, the region which is lucky enough to have Venice as its capital. Moving now from a regional plan to a more specific one, that we could define Venice-centric, what are the culinary wonders that this splendid city give us?

What to eat in Venice

Talking about food in Venice means making a leap into its old history. I always like to define the city as the most oriental that can be found in the western part of the world; this link with the East is in fact visible on every stone and on every mosaic of what they once called the Serenissima. The merchant traffic, the ships that sailed the seas of the known world, the waves of foreign merchants who stayed in the famous Fondaci (literally houses with wearhouses) to take care of their business, have in fact allowed the city to become a mix of different cultures and traditions.

This link between different cultures has inevitably manifested itself also in the venetian cuisine, which thanks to the numerous influences it has undergone, could be defined as one of the most varied in the world. But let’s not waste time chatting, on the contrary let’s go straight to the list of some of the most typical dishes of the lagoon. In other words, let’s analyse those delicacies that you absolutely cannot think of not tasting once you set foot in Venice.

Baccalà mantecato (creamed codfish)

It is probably the symbol of the city. There is no bacaro, restaurant or tavern that has not placed it on its menu. Its presence on the venetian tables is due to Captain Pietro Querini who, in the 15th century, after a shipwreck ended up staying for a few weeks in the Lofoten Islands, in Northern Europe.
There, he got to know the tradition of stockfish, codfish dried in the air and in the sun. On his return to the Serenissima, he made sure to take some samples with him and from that moment cod went straight into the culinary tradition of Venice. The recipe requires the boiling of the fish with bay leaves and lemon for about twenty minutes. Once cooked, the cod is just creamed with oil in a thin stream, salt and pepper.
The result is a soft and velvety cream perfect on bread croutons or on a slice of grilled polenta. A real treat!

venetian-style-liver

Sarde in Saor (Sweet and Sour Sardines)

Saor, which in venetian dialect means “sapore” so taste in english, consists of a sweet and sour preparation based on onions, vinegar, pine nuts and raisins. This delicious dish has ancient origins.
In fact, the presence of vinegar allows food to be kept for many days. Considering the lack of refrigerators, the saor was therefore the perfect method to consume even that fish (not only sardines) which was not really fresh. The recipe requires the frying of sardines and on the side the preparation of the saor. In a pan the onions (a lot of them) are browned with a drizzle of oil.Once dried, sugar is added to caramelize and the whole thing is deglazed with vinegar (the more vinegar is added the more intense the saor will be).
Lastly, fire off, pine nuts and raisins are put in. Finally we proceed with the preparation of the dish: a layer of saor has to be alternated with one of fried sardines, as if it was a lasagna, until the ingredients are used up. Saor must necessarely be prepared a couple of days in advace so the fish absorbes all the flavors and it becomes a real treat!

Polenta e Schie (Polenta with little shellfish)

Polenta in Veneto is really eaten in every possible way, but if served with schie it becomes even tastier. First of all, what are the schie? They are very small shrimp typical of the venetian lagoon. Despite their small size, their taste is really intense. You can taste them fried but the version you’re going to prefer is the boiled one. In fact, if boiled and seasoned with a drizzle of oil, pepper and parsley and served with hot and soft polenta, they will simply be somptuous. 

Risotto al nero di seppia (Squid ink Risotto)

Here two great venetian products are combined: rice and squid ink. Risotto is certainly a widespread first course in all of the northern regions of Italy. Whether you prefer it soupy or dry, it is a truly versatile dish that can be prepared with the most varied ingredients: vegetables, meat and of course in Venice with fish. If you love the strong and at the same time delicate taste of squid, you definitely have to try their ink. The colour might seem uninviting for a dish but the taste will amaze you!   

Pasta alla Busara

If you love shellfish, especially shrimp, you should definitely try the pasta, usually spaghetti, alla Busara. Its origins probably date back to after the war and could be sought in Istria (present day Croatia) but the dish is perfectly framed in the tradition of the city. The name busara has multiple meanings. Some claim it was an earthenware pot used on board ships, others say it means “lie” because of the presence of tomato sauce which somehow covered the taste of shrimp. Today one thing is certain, the shrimp in the busara sauce are definitely the protagonists and their taste gives the tomato a unique flavour.

frittelle-carnival

Bigoli in Salsa (Bigoli in sauce)

It is a dish with very poor origins. Bigoli in sauce were considered a lean option because they were consumed during those days when the precepts of religion imposed abstinence from certain food. The ingredients to make the sauce are actually poor: onions and anchovies. Don’t be fooled though, the taste on the contrary is an explosion of rich flavors.
The realization of the recipe is really simple. For the sauce, brown the onion with a generous dose of oil and add the anchovies. While cooking, these will flake off and create a mouth-watering sauce. The bigoli, a type of long pasta similar to spaghetti but much thicker, must instead be boiled, drained and finally whipped with the sauce.     

Fegato alla Veneziana (Venetian style Liver)

Don’t worry, if you don’t like fish, here’s a traditional venetian meat dish: liver…venetian style of course. Why is it defined like this? Because the dish is characterized by the presence of an ingredient that we have already mantioned extensively and which is very dear to the city: onions. The liver, usually from veal but it can also be found from pork, is simply cut into strips and cooked in a pan with oil, butter and onions. A sprinkle of vinegar is also inevitable as it is excellent to dampen the strong taste of the meat and the sweet but intense taste of the onions.

Buranelli (Burano cookies)

You don’t want to live Venice without having tried some typical sweets, do you? In addition to being delicious, the Buranelli are also the perfect souvenir for friends anf family. These cookies are typical of the island of Burano, one of the three main island of the venetian lagoon together with Murano and Torcello. The ingredients are among the most classic for sweet preparations: flour, eggs, sugar, butter and vanilla flavouring. The recipe is very simple; just assemle everything and create donut-shaped cookies, bake for about twenty minutes in the oven and you’re done. Try them, they are amazing!

Frittelle (fried donuts)

If you are in Venice during the Carnival period (unfortunately, or fortunately for those who want to keep in shape, they can only be enjoyed in those weeks) you absolutely have to stop in one of the many historic pastry shops and taste the famous frittelle (in Venetian dialect fritole). Their origins are very ancient, they probably date back to the 14th century. They are made of a thick and sticky batter made from eggs, butter, milk , flour, yeast, sugar and flavourings which is then fried “spoon by spoon” in boiling oil and then stuffed. The classic venetian one actually has no filling  but only raisin which is put directly in the row dough. The sweet tooth can taste the many variations with chocolate filling, classic cream, pistacchio cream  and a bunch of other flavors. The whole city, at Carnival, smells like frittelle… it is the scent of joy!   

Baicoli

Baicoli are typical cookies of the venetian tradition. They have ancient origins and they are said to have been consumed by sailors forced to long periods of absence from home because of their long preservation over time. They are made of a very simple dough based on water, flour, yeast, butter, sugar amd egg whites. The consistency of these sweets is very different from the above mentioned Buranelli; if those are buttery and crumbly, the Baicoli are on the contrary “hard” and crunchy. They are perfect together with mascarpone cream, eggnog or an excellent sweet wine.

Venetian cuisine

We could mention many other dishes that make Venetian cuisine a real Italian gem, but surely the above mentioned onces are already enough to let you have a real deep dive in the most authentic Venetian essence.

Travelling doen’t just mean moving from one place to another. Travelling means opening your mind and heart to new experiences, it means living different cultures and traditions and knowing stories of exciting characters. But there is more, travelling also means experiencing the local cuisine because there is no monument nor museum that can convey the soul of a country, or a city, or a people as perfectly as the dishes that its inhabitants traditionally consume do. 

Food is history, it is life, it is culture, it is art and beauty, it is sharing and joy so what would Venice be without its baccalà mantecato or its frittelle?

What more can I say? Fasten your seat belts, set the navigator towards Venice and…enjoy your meal!     

Categories
Uncategorized

Top 10 bacari in Venice

bacari-e-cicchetti

Top 10 bacari of Venice

In Venice there are monuments not to be missed, breathtaking views and surreal atmospheres but let’s not forget that the city is the wonder that we all know and appreciate also thanks to its delicious food. We cannot therefore say that we really lived Venice deep down without having tried the experience of its bacari. Here the top 10 bacari in Venice.

Bacaro, what is it?

But what exactly is a bacaro? Do you know those places that feel like home immediately? Those where a glass of good wine and a few appetizing snacks change your day? A bacaro is all of this and much more. Halfway between a restaurant and a winery, between a bar and a tavern, it is an informal and familiar place to spend time doing what Venetians really do well, eat and drink in company. Above I mentioned appetizing snacks but if you don’t want Venetians to get angry, don’t even think you can call them that way, because in Venice there is a very specific term that defines them: cicchetti.

Cicchetti

The cicchetti are the so-called “Venetian tapas”, a series of croutons, meatballs, skewers (usually fish) little sandwiches and other delicious finger food to be enjoyed during the holy aperitivo time but also for a quick lunch. The cicchetti are especially the perfect choice to fully enjoy what we call “bacarotour” a sort of super Venetian tour from bacaro to bacaro to be able to taste the most varied cicchetti, drink good wine ( a lot of it!). Have a chat with friends enjoying the cheerful and festive atmosphere typical of these circumstances. In short, going for bacari means drinking and eating, having fun and being fine together.
Now that you know that your staying in Venice will necessarely have to include a stop in one of these typical informal bars, how can you find the best bacari? The city is actually so rich in tourist traps and so full of narrow streets and labyrinthine calli that you really risk not to find the right places.

bacaro

best bacari in Venice

Here is a list of the top 10 bacari in Venice and where to find them, to be able to live and enjoy the city like a real Venetian.

Cantina Do Spade

Cantina Do Spade is located in a central area in San Polo district. A short walk from the Rialto Bridge but well hidden in a suggestive secondary calletta. It’s one of the most popular bacari of the city . It offers a typical cuisine that ranges from fish, the great protagonist of the Venetian tradition, to meat. You will therefore find the classic sarde in saor (sardines first fried and then marinated with vinegar onions), the inevitable baccalà mantecato (creamed codfish), fried squid but also meatballs with tomato sauce and fegato alla veneziana (liver with vinegar onions).

Paradiso perduto

It is located in the beautiful setting of the Fondamenta dei Ormesini, in the district perhaps richest in authentic bacari: Cannaregio. The Paradiso Perduto with its blue curtains, its alternative atmosphere and its wooden furnishings is the perfect choice for those who love informal style and conviviality. In addition to the amazing local cuisine you can sometimes enjoy live music. The specialty is certainly fried fish.

Alla Toletta

You can find it in Dorsoduro district, not far from the famous Campo Santa Margherita. Perfect for a quick but tasty lunch, Alla Toletta basically means one thing: dreamy tramezzini. The tramezzini are delicious litlle triangular sandwiches with fillings that range from the classic ham, mushrooms and mayonnaise to the most refined rocket and crab. You will be spoiled for choice, they are all spectacular!

Bacareto da Lele

Near the Tolentini church, not far from Piazzale Roma, in Dorsoduro district, there is a small bar that attracts especially young people: the Bacareto da Lele. Here you can find a forever winning combination: a good glass of house wine and a little sandwich, perhaps with good Venetian Soppressa salami. The atmosphere is informal and joyful and Lele is a real institution in Venice.

Al Mercà

If you are in the Rialto area, in Campo Bella Vienna, close to the vaporetto stop Rialto Mercato in San Polo district, you have to stop for a spritz combined with a tuna meatball or a good little sandwich at the Mercà. The place is very small and has no seats but that way you can live an entirely Venetian experience, that of an upright aperitivo. The Campo is always full of life and the fun is guaranteed.
cicchetti

La Vedova

La Vedova is located in the Cannaregio district along one of the most tourist streets of the city: Strada Nuova. But do not be fooled, it is well hidden in a secondary calle and it perfectly maintains its fully Venetian character. La Vedova means only one thing: spectacular meatballs! There is also the possibility of stopping for a proper meal but the hot and crispy meatballs are truly its distinctive feature.

Al Timon

Another place located in the super venetian district of Cannaregio, another place located in the beautiful setting of the Fondamenta dei Ormesini, very close to the Jewish Ghetto. Its cicchetti are perhaps the most famous in the whole city. Their specialty are for sure croutons. You can find them with meat (for example with sausage and cheese) or fish ( for example with creamed codfish) and they can be classic or extravagant. You also have to try the baked potate sticks. If you love meat it would be a really good idea to stop even for a super dish of grilled meat!

Bacarando in Corte dell'Orso

Not far from the Rialto bridge, in San Polo district and well hidden behind the super crowded Campo San Bortolo, you find Bacarando in Corte dell’Orso. The place, entirely decorated in wood, is simply lovely. The cicchetti are rich and varied. We go from meat and fish croutons, to mozzarelle in carrozza ( small sandwiches stuffed with mozzarella and other ingredients such as ham, anchovies, salmon dipped in batter and then fried) to fish skewers and savory pies.

Ae Bricoe

Let’s go back to the already mentioned Fondamenta dei Ormesini in Cannaregio district, to make a stop in a relatively new place but already perfectly framed in the Venetian reality: Ae Bricoe. The staff is really nice and the cicchetti are delicious. Meatballs are recommended but especially you have to try the sandiwiches with Porchetta, a real treat!

Taverna al Remer

Very popular with Venetians, located in San Polo district in the Campiello del Remer, perhaps one of the most hidden and evocative of the city because it overlooks the Grand Canal directly. It will offer you a classy and yet not expensive aperitivo with a priceless view. Also perfect for a romantic dinner, it detaches itself from the more informal atmosphere of the others but it maintains its simple Venetian soul.
As you can see a city is not made only of its artistic wonders but also of those of everyday life. The bacari of Venice are what make it real and alive by binding it inextricably to its inhabitants and its people. It seems like all you have to do now is to pack your bags, empty your stomachs and plunge yourselves headlong into the top 10 bacari in Venice! You’ll love it!